Finding the Right Portable Table Saw for Your Jobsite

There are a lot of options available in portable and jobsite table saws. When investing in one, the lists of considerations and saws to choose from will be, well, really long. Accordingly, it’s crucial to think about what you want from your saw before you plunge right into purchasing one. Knowing what you need the saw to do for you will ensure you invest in the machine that best suits your specific needs.

To help you navigate the process of choosing a portable table saw, here’s a list of things to consider and attributes to look for.

Rip Capacity:

First things first, you need enough cutting capacity to get your work done. A rip capacity of 24-1/2-inches through 25-inches is just about perfect; this allows you to rip to the center of full sheet of plywood. Depending upon your work requirements, you may need a few less inches, something in the 9-1/2-inches to 17-1/4-inches range, or you may need a saw with bigger chops, something in the 26-inches to 30-inches range.

As far as wide-capacity fences are concerned, you’ve got two basic choices: one with a dual-read/separate scale (the scale, of course, indicates the width-of-cut) and one with a continuous scale. While the continuous scale is more efficient, the feature doesn’t necessarily make or break a good table saw.

Power and Cut Quality:

Your table saw should always deliver smooth cuts. You can’t ask for miracles when cutting through thick, tough wood, but your table saw should have the power to manage these tough cuts without ravaging your stock. A 15-amp motor should ensure smooth cuts under most circumstances. Features like soft-start and electronic feedback will also keep your motor performing better. Though a little pricier, a higher-performance motor will ensure a longer tool life and better tool performance (especially in rough stock).

Blade Controls:

Because you’ll use your blade control often to adjust the bevel angle of your blade, you want to ensure the control is simple and comfortable to use. While some saws feature their blade control on the side of the saw, you may also find it positioned on the front; this is a nice convenience. As far as the adjusting mechanism goes, the blade control is most commonly a bevel handwheel, a front crank bevel setting, or a bevel-lock lever that allows you to manually tilt the saw. In any case, don’t choose a saw with blade controls that you’re not totally comfortable using.

Rip Fence:

Because most cutting applications are rips, your rip fence might be the most important feature on your portable table saw. It should be well-built for durability and precise for total accuracy. The fence should be able to lock-down securely and always parallel to the blade. It should move and adjust smoothly, and offer a clear and accurate scale. Some rip fences offer T-slots which allow you to attach additional accessories; if you often use a featherboard, T-slots are good to have around.

Miter Gauge:

Look for a well-built, durable and easy-to-read miter gauge. This will make a big difference on the job. While aftermarket miter gauges are available, it’s wise to invest in a saw with a nice one right out of the box.

Safety Features: The Blade Guard Assembly

• Blade Guard: A table saw’s blade guard is one of it’s most important features. The guard should offer streamlined safety while also being easy to remove and reinstall. Because removing the blade guard is eventual (for non-through cuts, very thin rips, dadoing or etc), it’s practical to have an assembly that removes and reinstalls without tools. – Some saws offer a feature that will keep your blade guard in a raised position while you set up cuts; this increases your visibility.
• Riving Knife: A good riving knife, splitter or spreader will prevent your stock from pinching against the blade during cuts. This ensures cleaner, safer operation. Some saws feature a riving knife that isn’t totally fixed; this is super convenient as it allows the riving knife to move with bade height adjustments.
• Anti-Kickback Pawls: Anti-kickback pawls help prevent (yes, you guessed it) kickback. They’re designed with sharp teeth that will grab and catch your stock if it tries to kickback (kickback: also eventual).

Table Saw Stand:

A good table saw stand improves your results, your efficiency and the overall portability of the saw. You want one that offers both stability and easy set-up. A collapsible stand with wheels allows you to move around at the jobsite or in your work area more easily. Some stands also allow users to roll them around after they’re set-up; this is a great option for those who need to be more mobile.

There are a handful of table saw stand designs, but the most efficient options typically feature folding, locking legs (similar to a card table), or a collapsible design utilizing a basic up/down motion and lever that locks the stand in either its functional or collapsed position. Most importantly, though, you really want stability from your saw stand.

Dust Control:

No matter what or how you’re cutting with your table saw, you’re going to generate debris, chances are you’re going to generate a lot of it. Accordingly, you’ll want a saw with decent dust control options. Though some saws don’t offer one at all, most portable table saws will feature a dust-port for attaching a bag or vacuum. – At the end of the day, you’ll really want a saw that captures some of your mess; this will save you an incredible amount of time and keep you cleaner and safer in the jobsite. Keep in mind, adequate dust control also keeps your clients happier when you’re working in their space.

In Summary:

In addition to each of these technical features, you’ll also want to consider the price and overall portability of each table saw. While you don’t want to buy too much saw, it’s important to also remember that you always get what you pay for. Cutting corners on price typically means cut corners in manufacturing. Be selective and you’ll enjoy many happy years with your portable table saw.

Better Power Tool Maintenance Rules

We invest a lot in our power tools. Many of us really love them, but even with the best intentions, each of us could use a reminder about power tool maintenance. No matter how durable or high-performance our tools are, they require a certain level of up-keep to maintain their functionality. By remembering the following few maintenance practices, you’ll increase the life of your power tools and keep them performing better.

Get ready; your first Better Power Tool Maintenance Rule is a multi-parter.

1. Keep your power tools clean, dry and temperate; this includes eliminating dust and debris.

• A.) Don’t let your tools get wet and don’t expose them to extreme temperatures. To protect your tool from premature wear, corrosion and other damage, store and transport your tools cautiously (away from moisture, heat, cold and danger).

• B.) Wipe down your tools after each use.

  In it’s various forms, grease and gunk will bog down your tool. Wipe tools thoroughly after each use and periodically clean the inside of the tool, too. Breaking-down your tools to care for their individual components will ensure better performance and longevity. When wiping the tool, also check-on the fasteners that hold it together. Tighten anything that has come lose during operation.

• C.) Eliminate dust and debris.

  Using some form of compressed or canned air, blow-out your power tool’s vulnerable areas (i.e. the vents, the chuck, the trigger and etc). If unchecked, debris will collect and clog-up your tools; keeping them clear of this debris will keep the motor running smooth and allow your moving parts to keep moving freely.

2. Keep bits and blades clean and sharp.

Dull accessories deliver inferior performance and are much more likely to fudge a project than a clean, sharp accessory. Compensating for dull or gummy bits and blades can also overheat your tool’s motor. To ensure your safety, better results, and a healthier tool, keep your bits and blades wiped clean and sharpen or replace them when dull.

3. Oil your air tools.

Without lubricant in your air tools, components will break. Period. You must properly oil your air tools to ensure moving parts can move without excess friction. Over-oiling can also create a sludge within the tool that will slow it down. – Typically one drop of oil for every three-thousand shots is sufficient but please refer to your tool’s manual for precise oiling instructions.

4. Take care of your power cords and air hoses.

Improperly using, coiling and storing your power cords and air hoses makes them more susceptible to damage and much more prone to causing damage to you and others in your environment. Use your cords and hoses carefully and always store them properly. Inspect your power cords as you coil (and uncoil) them to ensure there are no breaks or other points of damage in the cord. Do not use a damaged power cord.

Rule 5 applies specifically to your air compressors:

5. Keep your compressor properly oiled and drained.

You must refill the oil in your compressor. Check the oil level based on use and on manufacturer guidelines to ensure your machine remains smooth. It’s also crucial to drain your compressor’s tank after every use. If you don’t drain the tank, rust will severely damage the tool.

6. Replace parts when they need to be replaced.

There’s a lot going on on the inside of your power tools. Thanks to heat, friction and regular wear-and-tear, the components in your tools wear out. Check-in on your parts condition and replace them when they’ve become too worn/damaged to function properly. This will give you better performance and more overall life from your tools.

And finally,

7. Keep and refer to your tool’s manual.

Your tool has a manual for a reason. Read it, keep it and let it be a resource for you throughout the life of the tool. When you need some direction while troubleshooting, diagnosing, maintaining or repairing your tools, the manual is always the best place to start.

The Big Sum-Up:

After long hours on the job, it can be easy to forget (or to not want) to take care of your power tools. The fact is, though, that these few practices take only moments of your time and add immeasurable value to your equipment. Keep up on your tools and they’ll do the same for you.

How to Clear a Jammed Nail Gun

Disclaimer: This “Quick Tip” is significantly less quick than its predecessors; it is, however, equally important. Use these guidelines to keep safe and productive while working with air tools.

Though the intricate systems of valves, cylinders, pistons and springs that make up our air tools may appear, by all counts, prepared to fire nails into eternity, there are a number of factors that can contribute to a jammed nail in your air tool. Of course, the most common cause for encountering a jammed nail is human error, but, essentially, a jam occurs when a fastener gets caught in a nail gun or when a fastener fires into something (like another fastener or a tough knot) that deflects the nail backward into the gun. In either case, a jam must be unjammed. Fortunately, for us users, unjamming an air tool requires only a few simple steps and the due amount of caution.

To clear a jammed nail from an air tool, one must first disengage the tool by turning it off and/or disconnecting its air hose or battery. Next, open the gun’s magazine and remove all racks of unfired fasteners. Do not bypass this step; it is imperative that you disengage the tool and remove any fasteners from potentially firing. Because the nailer will be waiting to obey the firing command it was given before the jam prevented discharge, as soon as that jam clears, it will attempt to fire. Accordingly, the tool must be in all capacities prevented from unintentionally discharging a nail. So, no matter what, disengage the tool and remove all the fasteners from its magazine.

Next, you must access the jam. The gun’s manual will show you how to best do this. Most nail guns, however, have a flip-style locking mechanism on their nose piece. This should open without tools, but, if not, you may gently release the latch with pliers or the claw of a hammer (the “claw” being the curved prongs on a hammer’s back-side).

If there is no latch on the nose piece of your gun, please do not attempt to open it; instead you will likely access the jam through a latch on the top of the gun. This will have a flip-style latch mechanism or a few screws that will need to be removed in order to reach the interior of the gun. Bearing in mind that you may need to remove one or more components to reach the jammed nail, open this access to inspect the jam. In the event components must be removed, be careful not to damage them and be equally careful reinstalling them; ensure each part is restored to exactly the manner in which it was removed.

Next, you need only remove the jam. You may be able to clear it with your fingers, but, if the nail is bent or otherwise caught or obstructed, you may need to use a pair of long-nosed pliers to release it. After removing the jammed fastener, inspect the nose piece and the nail path for damage or anything that appears out of the ordinary.

Next, simply close-up shop (or, close the mechanism you opened to remove the jam), reload your magazine and reengage the air tool. Fire a test-shot to ensure all is well and, assuming it is, be successfully on your way. If, on the other hand, the gun is still jammed or jams again, reopen the tool to look for additional jammed fasteners or for visible damage to the gun. If upon this inspection, no jams or damage are found, take your nail gun to an authorized service center for diagnosis/repair.

How To Rip Cut Using a Table Saw,

Cabinet Saw or Contractor Saw

Rip cutting is a popular wood cutting method in which a workpiece is cut with or along its grain. While this is a common and generally clean wood cutting technique, rip cutting still requires a few particular steps. Firstly, we’ll lay down the most basic basics. All rip cuts must be performed with a rip saw blade and a rip fence. The ripping bade ensures smooth, accurate cuts and the rip fence helps support and guide each workpiece as it passes through the saw. As with all through cuts, you should also use your blade guard while rip cutting and although the miter gauge is required for some techniques (like cross cutting workpieces), it should not be used while making rip cuts.

Through Rip Cuts

Before beginning each rip cut, make sure your table saw’s motor is off and that the saw blade has completely stopped spinning. Next, set the blade to the required tilt angle and adjust the blade’s elevation to approximately 1/8-inch above the workpiece. After the blade has been properly adjusted, position the rip fence for your rip width and lock it into place.

NOTE: Keep in mind that serious injuries may occur when ripping operations are attempted freehand or improperly: if you are unsure about the functionality or mechanics of your rip fence, please refer to its manual. It will be rich with facts, tips, instructions or any other info you might be searching for (with regard to your rip fence, at least).

Next, position your workpiece so that the grain faces the saw blade head-on and runs parallel to the rip fence. Ensure the workpiece is flat against the table top and flush against the side of the fence. Engage the saw and, using both hands, smoothly, steadily push the workpiece towards the blade. When pushing a workpiece through the blade, you must always maintain at least 6-inches (in every direction) between your hands and the saw blade. Any closer is simply too close.

To avoid positioning your hands too close to a spinning blade, there are a few other positions or methods you can employ. First, if your hand that is furthest from the fence approaches the 6-inch zone, you may either remove that hand entirely and continue the cut with one hand, or you may reposition this hand near your other hand for added support. If both of your hands approach the 6-inch zone, remove both hands and use a push stick (this is often included with your table saw). If your specific cut requires that the rip fence be positioned too close to the blade to use a push stick (this might occur where board lengths are very narrow), you may use an auxiliary fence and push block to make the cut.

NOTE: At the end of this article you will also find instructions for constructing and using a push stick, auxiliary fence and push block.

Continue pushing your workpiece toward the rear of the saw until it clears the blade. Disengage the saw and wait until the blade has come to a complete stop before retrieving the cut-off portion of your workpiece. When rip cutting workpieces that are longer than approximately 4-feet, use rollers, an out-feed table or a similar support system to keep your workpiece from falling off the back of the table.

Non-Through Rip Cuts

When making non-through rip cuts, or cuts that don’t extend through an entire workpiece, the rip cutting process is slightly different. Though most of the above instructions still apply, for non-through cuts, you must remove the blade guard and spreader, and install a riving knife (for Dado cuts, the riving knife is not necessary). Additionally, one or more featherboards should be employed to hold-down the workpiece and to help prevent kickback. Do not use the miter gauge when cutting with featherboards. Clamp the featherboard to the rip fence or to an extender board that is similarly clamped to the rip fence. Additional featherboards may be clamped to the top of the table and against the left side of the workpiece to keep the board snug. Though featherboards can be purchased for this purpose, for instructions on making your own, please see the so titled section at the end of this article.

After securely positing your blade, fence, featherboards and any etceteras that might be required for your specific cut, begin and finish the cut as outlined above. Here, however, stop pushing the workpiece when you have reached the end of your cut-line (rather than the end of your workpiece).

How to Make a Push Stick

A push stick is a very useful safety tool that is relatively simple to construct. Given a good hunk of sturdy and non-conductive material (like a wood scrap or simple plywood), you can build one with only a few cuts and measurements. Begin with a scrap or board that is about a 1/2-inch to 3/4-inches thick and about 9-inches by 16-inches. The push stick itself should be the thickness of that scrap, about 4-inches wide at its middle and widest point, and about 15-inches in total length. Altogether, the shape of the thing should generally resemble a butcher knife with a notch taken from its point. This notch, of course, is designed to grab and better hold a workpieces it pushes. The first 8-inches (the tool’s business end) should begin with a squared notch that is about 1-1/2-inches long (horizontal when the tool is poised to work) and about a 1/2-inch wide (vertical). Both ends of the notch should taper upwards (on about a 1/2-inch slope) until the shape (which would be the blade portion of our butcher knife comparison) has about 4-inches between its top and bottom. The top of the push stick should continue this slope while the bottom of the puss stick should indent about 1-inch, losing enough width to form a comfortable, functional handle. Typically, the handle is about 7-inches long and tapers from about 2-1/2 to 1-1/2-inches wide. The push stick should then culminate at a 1-1/2-inch round forming the butt of the handle. Draw this shape and cut it out of your material. Smooth any rough edges and drill a through hole near the end of the handle allowing you to store the stick on a nail or peg board when not in use.

How to Make an Auxiliary Fence

To make an auxiliary fence, you will need a 3/4-inch thick piece of plywood that is approximately 6-inches by 27-inches, and a 1/2-inch thick piece that is approximately 9-inches by 27-inches. From the 3/4-inch plywood, cut piece A, a rectangular piece that is 2-inches by 24-inches. From the 1/2-inch plywood, cut piece B, a rectangular piece that is 5-1/2-inches by 24-inches. Position a 24-inch length of piece A atop a 24-inch length piece B (forming a right angle) and join them using wood glue and counter-sunk wood screws.

How to Make a Push Block

To make a push block you will need to measure, draw and cut three separate pieces (A, B and C) from two different pieces of plywood. This will require a piece of 3/4-inch plywood that is about 9-inches by 7-inches and a piece of 1/2-inch plywood that is about 8-inches by 9-inches. From the 3/4-inch section, cut piece A, a ‘C’ shaped piece that will become the handle of your push block. The length or “grip” portion of this piece should be 9-inches long and 1-1/2-inches wide. The legs, so to speak, of the handle should be 3-1/2-inches (5-inches total when including the grip section) by 2-inches wide (this renders the underside of the grip 5-inches long. You may choose to round the corners of the grip, but do leave the bottoms of the legs flat and square.

Additionally, although for functionality’s sake cutting-out the handle makes a much more effective push block, you may also choose to leave this a piece complete allowing it to simply be a hump about 5-inches high and 9-inches long.

From the 1/2-inch plywood, you will cut pieces B and C. Piece B will be a simple rectangular shape with a notch in one corner. Cut a piece that is 5-1/4-inches by 9-inches. Cut a 1/2-inch by 7-inch notch from one of the 9-inch lengths leaving one side of the piece now 4-3/4-inches (rather than 5-1/4-inches). From the scrap of that notch (or from the remaining 1/2-inch plywood, cut piece C, a small 1/2-inch by 2-inch rectangular shape. Using wood glue and counter-sunk wood screws, attach piece A (long-wise) to the center of piece B (also long wise) so that piece A, the handle, protrudes upright from piece B and the two form a contraption quite like an iron (yes, an iron; like the iron you’d use to iron your t-shirts). Lastly, using wood glue only, attach piece C to the bottom of the 2-inch hangover on piece B so that its 2-inch length sits flush with piece B’s 2-inch jut.

Rip Cutting With an Auxiliary Fence and Push Block

While following the same rip cutting steps outlined above, to use an auxiliary fence in conjunction with your rip fence, place the auxiliary fence flat on the saw table (piece B down) and about 2-inches back from the front edge of the table. Position and clamp the fence (piece A) against the left side of the rip fence. Next, position and lock the rip fence so that the space between the blade and the left edge of the auxiliary fence is identical to the width you need to cut. Using the auxiliary fence as a guide, slide the workpiece through the saw. If your hands approach the 6-inch zone, use the push block to complete the cut.

How to Make a Featherboard

When building a featherboard, high quality wood without knots or other such weaknesses must be used. A typical featherboard should begin with a 24-inch by 7-1/4-inch rectangle of high quality, 3/4-inch wood. For simplicity’s sake, we will label the corners of the board 1, 2, 3, and 4 moving 0in a clockwise rotation. Next, from corner 3, make a 60-degree through cut towards corner 2. This cut will clip-off corner 1 creating a new, obtuse corner 1, it will give the board a dog-ear kind of shape, and will render the distance between corners 1 and 2 about 4-1/2-inches shorter, or, 19-1/2-inches in total length; this shorter end will now be referred to as Side A. The longer, still 24-inch end, will be referred to as Side B. From obtuse corner 1, measure 4-inches towards corner 2 and mark that spot on your board. From that spot, draw a straight line down from Side A to Side B. That line should stop about 8-1/5-inches from the (now acute) corner 3. Using that straight line as your stopping point, cut small leaf cuts into the dog ear toward your straight line. The leaf cuts, which are most easily made with a bandsaw, can also be cut with your table saw. They should remove strips of material 1/8-inch in width between 1/4-inch sections of board. This feathering technique is where the apparatus gets its name. The leaf cuts should taper in length from about 4-inches (at side A) to 8.5-inches (at side B).

How to Clean Glue and Gunk

From Your Woodworking Tools and Equipment

Any one of us that has spent more than a minute or two in the woodshop has certainly made a mess. For better or for worse, these messes often involve glues, adhesives, or other such goopy, gummy gunk. Of course, it is the nature of these substances to stick and, more often than not, to stick to a handful of surfaces aside from the one they’re intended for.  Accordingly, we craftsmen require an arsenal of solutions to eliminate this gunk and to keep our hand tools and woodworking equipment in good, clean, working order. Fortunately, that arsenal is easy to find and easy to use; simply employ the below information to maximaize your shop and the equipment in it.

First, because keeping your tools and working environment clean is an integral characteristic of producing quality craftsmanship, one should always keep a liberal quantity of one or a few of the following (generally mild) solutions in the shop: WD-40, lacquer thinner, turpentine or denatured alcohol. Denatured alcohol is also known as methylated spirits and is essentially ethanol with chemical additives that make it, more or less, extremely poisonous. So, although I hope there is little temptation to consume any of these solvents, don’t drink it. All of these chemicals can be highly dangerous and are extremely flammable. Accordingly, although incredibly helpful to have about the shop, be very cautious with using and storing these solutions; chemical solvents can injure or kill when abused or used foolishly or improperly.

Because they are often used as multipurpose cleaners, these solvents are relatively easy to come by; in fact, you may purchase them at any home improvement or hardware store and usually from your local supermarket as well. These solvents can quickly dissolve wood glue and other industrial adhesives and, in effect, keep your equipment shining clean. (Note: speaking of multipurpose cleaners, you may also use the “green” or organic multipurpose cleaning solutions you’d find on your grocery store’s cleaning isle; they are effective, economical, and you can use them in the house as well as in the shop.)

To attack a gluey or gunky mess, simply arm yourself with one of these solvents, a pair of latex gloves and a clean shop rag. While wearing these latex gloves, apply an appropriate amount of solution to a clean shop rag and commence assault on your problem areas; in other words, simply scrub the gunk away and repeat this process until you have satisfactorily cleaned your equipment. I would also recommend that you employ this practice a little more frequently than just for messy clean-ups; in fact, you should thoroughly rub/wipe down your tools after every use. Also, it is important that you wash/rinse your tools (and rags) after treating them with chemicals.

Although the aforementioned solvents should manage most gunks, if your mess requires something a little more intense than lacquer thinner or denatured alcohol can deliver, you have a few other cleaning options in the form of mineral spirits and acetone. Because these solutions are more dangerous, though,  you must understand and respect these chemicals before you employ them, they are seriously hazardous and extremely flammable – handle them with care and caution.

As for their application, though, use and apply the solutions in the same manner as expressed above. Absolutely wear gloves (you might also wear a mask), apply to a clean shop rag and rub away residual gunk. Thoroughly wash your tools, rags and hands after employing both mineral spirits and acetone and properly store these solvents when you’re finished using them.

And that is just about that. It is good practice to keep your tools clean and to clean them regularly. Clean tools build better project and altogether produce better result and deliver a better working experience.

How to Produce a Better Biscuit Joint:

10 Tips for More Effective Biscuit Joinery

Because it produces a flush and surprisingly strong joint, biscuit joinery is becoming one of the most common methods of wood joinery in the woodworking industry. Despite the relative simplicity of the process, though, there are a few trade tricks that will ensure your joinery process and subsequent biscuit joints are more efficient and professional. Incorporate the following ten tips and fast become a better biscuit joiner.

Better Biscuit Joinery Begins With These 10 Tips:

1. Before You Cut, Test-Cut

Of course, practice makes every performance more polished and while it’s good to accumulate experience, it is also important to remain humble in the face of your project; it is important to practice and analyze a cut before pouncing directly upon your workpiece. Accordingly, you should perform a test-cut in a scrap section of your working material. This allows you to gather a better feeling for your workpiece and presents an opportunity to plop a biscuit in that practice slot. This ensures you won’t encounter any surprises, jaw-droppers or knee-slappers when you engage the actual workpiece.

2. Dig a Little Deeper

To allow a little room for your biscuit to grow on and to ensure your workpieces can come together perfectly flush, cut your biscuit slots approximately 1/32nds of an inch deeper than half of the width of their corresponding biscuit. Do this on both workpieces to ensure a clean fit, a clean joint, and a spot of extra space for your biscuit to swell in.

3. Bigger Biscuits are Better

As a rule, where a joint has greater gluing surface area, the stronger that joint will be. Accordingly, when determining which biscuit size you should employ for your project, the largest biscuit that will fit is usually the best biscuit to use. Incorporating the most biscuit unfailingly results in a stronger wood joint. Despite that fact, though, it is important to appropriately down-size your biscuit when working more narrow or more delicate projects.

4. One is the Loneliest Number

If the workpieces being joined are or are greater than one-inch in thickness, use two biscuits (rather than one single biscuit) at each slot. This enhances the strength of the joint allowing it to better withstand the force of the workpieces being joined; preserve the resilience of the joint with a companion biscuit.

5. Biscuit Bandages:

Despite both experience and perfectionism, some mistakes are inevitable. Accordingly, there are a few impending errors looming in any crafter’s biscuit joinery future. Don’t fear these blunders, though, because a biscuit can also be a bandage. If you mis-cut a slot, simply glue in a biscuit, allow it to set, and trim it flush with the edge of your workpiece. This allows you a second chance (or even a third or fourth chance) to get that slot in the right place.

6. Facial Recognition

When cutting slots into adjoining boards, it is crucial that you cut each piece with the same face facing you. In other words, to ensure your slots will align and that your workpieces will come together flush, if you cut slots in one piece with the front face facing towards you, you must also cut the second piece with its front face facing towards you. Otherwise, you’ll almost certainly encounter a sciwompus joint.

7. Dump the Dust

Empty your dust bag often; this ensures a happier tool and cleaner, more accurate cuts. Of course, your dust collection system should always be engaged while cutting and you should always keep yourself protected with safety glasses and a face mask. Dust collection and a clean work environment are key elements to a high-functioning tool and an efficient work shop.

8. Trial Run

Before you go ahead and squeeze your own weight in glue onto your project, it is a good idea to put all the pieces together dry. Pre-assembling your joints (before applying any wood glue) allows you to ensure that all points are matching up as they should. Assemble the joints dry before gluing them down to establish that all edges are flush and that all slots are aligned.

9. Make the Most of Your Wiggle Room

Because the biscuit slot is a bit larger than the biscuit itself, after you’ve glued and assembled a joint (but before the glue sets the joint), you should have a bit of wiggle room. As such, this joining technique is one of life’s only methods that grants a little leeway; use it to your advantage. If your joint isn’t sitting exactly flush or is in one small way or another misaligned, push it around a little bit. The additional elbow room should allow you to maneuver and clamp the joint into a more desirable position.

10. Respect the Blade

The circular saw blade in your biscuit or plate joiner does a lot of work. Carving biscuit slots is a dirty enterprise and, accordingly, this blade can get a little dirty, too. To ensure the smoothest slot cutting and a longer life for your blade, keep the blade clean. Carefully and frequently wipe the blade and treat it to a little WD-40 after a long day. Additionally, although I want to promote a good, lasting relationship between you and your blade, if it becomes too warn to perform or begins to burn your workpieces, you should invest in a new one.

Altogether, and especially with these few tips, biscuit joinery is a rewarding practice that allows woodworkers to easily produce a strong, accurate wood joint. Apply these tips to your joining process and you’ll create a better joint for it.

DO NOT FORCE YOUR SAWS,

Instead, allow them to do the work for you.

If your blade encounters sudden or increased resistance while cutting, there is something wrong with the progress of the cut. To avoid costly and painful kickback, disengage the saw immediately and evaluate the situation. Analyze the cutting blade and its cut-path to ensure the blade is fit to perform and that the workpiece isn’t too stubborn for working.

How to Know Which Router Bit You Need:

Everything You Need to Know About Router Bits

WHAT IS A ROUTER BIT?

A router bit is a cutting tool used with a router to rout out (or hollow out) spaces in the surface of a generally hard workpiece. Although routers and router bits are more commonly used in woodworking applications like cabinetry and carpentry, these cutting tools can also perform in metals, plastics and various other materials. Essentially, though, these cutters are used to create joinery aids (like a dovetail joint) or to embellish work pieces with decorative or ornate effects (like formed edges, intricate inlays or surface work). With the right router bit, users can cut, trim, and shape workpieces with staggering versatility; these bits are available in numerous profiles and can be custom fabricated to create virtually any profile conceivable.

TYPES OF ROUTER BIT

Of course, there are many different types of router bit and although they all serve the same general purpose, they each do different things and achieve different results. A good router bit, though, should be sharp, should retain its sharp edge, and should be well balanced; this produces a bit that will last longer and will “chatter” or vibrate less during use. Conversely, bits of lesser quality tend to wear faster, chip easier, and chatter more aggressively. The following, then, is a basic breakdown of how router bits are most commonly categorized and their respective routing applications.

Cutter Type:

For the most part, router bits can be divided into three major types: fluted cutters, profile cutters and helical cutters. Fluted cutters are used for edging and trimming, profile cutters are used for trimming and shaping, and helical cutters, while mostly used in more easily machined (softer) materials, are designed for trimming, shaping and drilling. Of course, within these three groups, bits can be (and are) more specifically categorized – this will be reflected in greater detail below.

Construction:

Similarly, drill bits are usually fabricated with one of three compositions: solid high-speed steel (HSS), carbide tips, or solid carbide. HSS bits are the least expensive; they dull more quickly and, accordingly, are used primarily to trim laminate or for work in softer workpieces. Carbide tipped bits are the most universal bit type as they are more durable and perform (at least) reasonably well in all applications. Of course, these are more expensive than HSS bits, but they are equip to manage harder materials and they retain their sharp edges for longer periods. Solid carbide bits, as one would assume, are the most expensive and highest-performing bit type. While some might argue that their solid carbide construction is superfluous, they are durable and deliver beautiful results. Because of their cost, though, solid carbide bits are generally used by only the most practiced woodworkers.

Router bits can also be classified as edge bits, non-edge bits, or anti-kickback bits. Edge bits include a small wheel bearing which acts as a fence against each workpiece; these wheel bearings can be changed to alter the diameter of the cutting edge. Non-edge bits do not have this wheel bearing and therefore a fence (either attached to the workpiece, the router itself or to the router table) must be used with these bits. Anti-kickback bits, on another hand, feature non-cutting material surrounding the bit’s “shoulders.” This additional girth around the bit limits the material feed rate which, in turn, protects the workpiece from over-eager bit progress. This reduces the risk of kickback which occurs when a bit bites and catches the material it’s cutting. This is usually the result of material feeding too quickly. The girth of ant-kickback bits also allows the bit to stay cooler which reduces the likelihood of burnishing and allows the bit to better retain its sharpness.

Shank:

Router bits are also differentiated by the diameter of their shank or the portion of the bit that fits into the router collet. Shank sizes commonly range from about 1/2” to about 3/8.” Although 1/2” shank bits are typically more expensive, they are also the most popular as the thickness of their shank lends durability (in their stiffness) and also less vibration during use. Bits of a smaller shank diameter tend to be less durable and more chattery. Altogether, a 1/2” shank bit will usually deliver the smoothest cuts and due to their greater rigidity, many larger profile bits are only available with this 1/2” shank. Similarly, some smaller or more specialized bits are only available with a 1/4” shank.

The shank of a router bit and a router collet must have the same diameter to be used together. Of course, collets of different diameters are available for purchase and are frequently included with the router itself. Adapters may also be purchased to help different bit shank sizes fit more comfortably.

Speed:

In order to cut, trim, and shape efficiently, router bits spin at very high speeds (ranging from approximately 8,000 RPM to 30,000 RPM). Because router bits are shaped and sized differently, though, all router bits can not / should not spin at the same speeds. For example, because larger bits have more girth and weight spinning about, they also have a much greater potential to vibrate or be, in some other capacity, out of control. Larger bits, then, should be used at lower speeds. Similarly, bits that spin too slowly can burnish and damage your materials. Accordingly, manufacturer guidelines should always be reviewed and implemented before engaging a bit.

Although, as a generality, faster speeds are more advantageous while working with router bits (they ordinarily yield a much smoother cut), speed isn’t the only factor that contributes to the quality of your cutting results. The sharpness and composition of any given bit, the material being cut, the type of router being used, feed rate, and various other factors play into the results produced by your bits. Accordingly, it will behoove you to run bits at appropriate speeds before assuming the faster you spin them the smoother your results will be.

ROUTER BIT PROFILES AND APPLICATIONS:

As aforementioned, there are numerous bit designs and, according to that profile, each bit has a different specialization. The following, then, briefly sums-up (in alphabetical order) the most common bit types and the things those bits do best.

Ball End Router Bits:

As the name indicates, ball end bits have a ball or sphere shaped formation at their bottom which routs out channels for pipes and cables.

Bullnose Router Bits:

Bullnose bits are designed to create a (convex) rounded edge on the front edge of a workpiece.

Chamfering Router Bits:

Chamfering bits produce a clean angled bevel cut. These are commonly used in joinery for concealed joints and beveled edges in constructions with multiple sides. Chamfer bits are also used to create a decorative (albeit plain) angled edge.

Combination Router Bits:

Combination bits are primarily used in trimming to trim softer materials and, particularly, veneers.

Core Box or Round Nose Router Bits:

Core box or round nose bits produce a half-round groove or a groove or cove with a rounded bottom. They are commonly used for fluting and reeding.

Corner Round Router Bits:

Corner round bits are designed to create a rounded corner on a workpiece (usually furniture).

Drawer Lip Router Bits:

Drawer lip bits are used to create the the acting pull-handle on the fronts of pull-handle drawers and cabinets.

Edge Forming Router Bits:

Edge forming bits (like an edge beading bit) are used primarily to create a decorative edge on a workpiece. These bits often include a pilot bearing for guidance and are ordinarily used to create a final decorative feature. Because these bits are almost singularly used for embellishment and can take-on virtually any profile conceivable, there are many different types available. To name a few of the most common edge forming bit types, one will commonly encounter edge beading bits, cove bits, ogee (or Roman ogee) bits and round over bits.

        - Bead and Double Bead Router Bits:

Bead bits create a decorative quarter-round convex profile. Double bead bits do this twice with one quarter-round running directly below the other.

        - Cove Router Bits:

Cove bits are used to create a concave (or indented) quarter-round into the edge of a material.

        - Edge Beading Router Bits:

Edge beading bits are used to cut decorative half-round profiles called “beads” into the edge or corner of a workpiece. This edge typically features a small lip or fillet at the top and bottom of the convex half-circle cut.

        - Ogee Router Bits:

Ogee bits have an “S” shaped profile and produce an “S” shaped edge on a workpiece. These decorative edges have one convex hump and one concave cove (like an “S”) and usually have a small fillet at the top and bottom of the cut. This delivers a more traditional or “antique” finish.

        - Round Over Router Bits:

Round over bits produce a perfectly rounded edge on a workpiece. These are commonly used in cabinet and furniture making.

Finger Grip Router Bits:

Finger grip bits shape the drawer pull handles on the front edges of some drawers and cabinets.

Flush Trim Router Bits:

As the name implies, flush trim router bits are used to trim the edge of one material to be flush with the edge of another material. They are often used to flush veneers or to produce identical shapes in multiple workpieces. These bits are used with a pilot bearing that may be positioned at the top of the bit or at the base of the cutting edge.

Fluting Router Bits:

Fluting bits are used to carve flutes (or a concave profile) into a workpiece (usually molding).

Joinery Router Bits:

Joinery bits are used to produce a specialized type of groove for a precision joint. These, then, are used in virtually all types of construction where one workpiece must be joined to another. The most popular joinery bits are dovetail bits, drawer lock bits, finger joint bits, lock miter bits and tongue-and-groove bits.

        - Dovetail Router Bits:

Dovetail bits are used to create a strong joint between materials and are ordinarily used in cabinetry, frames and shelving. They are available in a huge variety of angles and involve carving interlocking mortises and tenons (usually fan-shaped) into an adjoining workpiece.

        - Drawer Lock Router Bits:

Drawer lock bits are designed specifically for the joining of perpendicular pieces (like the joining of drawer sides to drawer fronts) and should always be used with a router table. They create a wedge-shaped tenon.

        - Finger Joint Router Bits:

Finger joint bits have a series of thin horizontal cutters that protrude from the bit (like fingers). When this profile is cut into two separate pieces, the grooves/extensions interlock to create a strong end or edge joint with a greater gluing surface area. Some finger joint bits feature adjustable cutters.

        - Lock Miter Router Bits:

Lock miter bits have a reputation for being difficult to use but create durable and (when used properly) perfectly aligned miter joints with a large surface area for gluing.

        - Tongue-and-Groove Router Bits:

Tongue-and-groove bits are used in pairs to create a tongue-and-groove joint in a workpiece. This joins workpieces together edge-to-edge (where one piece has a thin, deep ridge (tongue) and the other has a slot (groove); these pieces are pushed tightly together to form the joint).

Keyhole Router Bits or Keyhole Slotters:

Keyhole bits are used to cut the keyhole shaped slots found on the backs of hanging workpieces like picture frames. These slots, of course, aide in the hanging of these pieces.

Molding Router Bits:

Molding bits are used to create complex ornamental profiles in architectural and furniture moldings and are usually much larger than a typical edge forming bit. They can incorporate multiple profiles onto one bit and produce ornate edging for molding pieces. As these bits are more substantial, they are almost always used with a router table.

Mortise Router Bits:

Mortise bits are used to carve mortises (or square shaped slots). These are used for joinery and for carving spaces for hardware such as hinges and lock sets.

Rabbeting Router Bit:

Rabbeting bits are used to create rabbets or notches in the edge of a material. These cuts/notches are vertically and horizontally straight and create a step shaped profile. Rabbeting bits utilize a pilot bearing which is positioned at the top of the bit and guides it along the edge of a workpiece. Using pilot bearings of different diameters allows one rabbeting bit to produce cuts (rabbets) in multiple sizes.

Raised Panel Router Bit:

Raised panel bits are available in both vertical and horizontal configurations and are typically used (with a stile and rail bit – see below) to create profiled, decorative edges on a panel (i.e doors). Horizontal raised panel bits cut profiles while the panel being cut is flat (horizontal) on a work table. Vertical raised panel bits cut profiles into a panel while said panel is on its edge, and, because their radius is much smaller, are usually considered safer and simpler to operate.

Spiral Router Bits:

Spiral router bits are designed quite like a spiral drill bit with flutes ground around the body of the bit to form a sharp spiral profile. They are available in up-cut and down-cut configurations and, while ideal for plunge cutting, they are also used for edge forming, cutting, and trimming in a variety of materials.

Stile and Rail Router Bits:

In frame and panel construction, stile and rail bits are designed to create ornamental edges and panel slots in the edge of a workpiece (most commonly in raised panel doors and custom cabinets). These ordinarily come in sets of two matched bits but are also available singularly.

Straight Router Bits:

Straight bits come in a variety of cutting diameters and are designed to make straight cuts into a material to hollow-out an area or to produce a grove or dado in a workpiece (usually for a mortise or inlay). Straight bits are very common and may also be used for dado joining and for general material cutting.

V-Groove Router Bits:

V-groove bits are used to carve a “V” shaped groove into a workpiece. While ideal for miter folds, these bits are commonly used in lettering and sign-making.

Veining Router Bits:

Veining bits are designed to create decorative cut-in designs. They are commonly used for free-hand work and lettering.

TIPS FOR OPTIMIZING YOUR ROUTER BITS:

To conclude this journey through router bit basics, the following are a few tips to help you optimize your router bits and your experience with them.

First, you should always store your router bits separately from one another (perhaps even in their own individual cubbies). Because router bits are both heavy and fragile, you want to minimize their contact with anything they are not presently cutting. Don’t allow your bits to roll about bumping and knocking into other objects under which circumstance they will most certainly chip.

Second, keep your router bits sharp. Dull bits can damage your materials and will produce generally poor cuts. Like many other cutters, router bits can be sharpened to keep their edge.

Third, be cautious of how you handle your router. Both forcing a bit and moving one too slowly can cause overheating in both the bit and the router. An overheated bit can damage workpieces and can lose temper (which diminishes the integrity of the bit) and an overheated tool can result in internal and sometime irreparable damage. The sound your tool makes as you cut is usually a fairly good indicator of whether or not you are properly paced.

Everything You Need to Know About Table Saw Kickback

and Kickback Prevention

What is Table Saw Kickback?

Table saw kickback is, plainly and simply, gnarly; its frightening, dangerous, damaging and surprisingly common. Kickback occurs during a cut when, for one of a few reasons, a piece of wood stock is violently flung from a table saw and back towards its operator. The stock is propelled by the force and momentum of the saw’s engaged blade and catapulted back at the user at speeds that can reach (or exceed) one-hundred miles per hour. Accordingly, it is not unheard of for a piece of material to lodge itself into a wall, to damage other shop equipment, or to cause serious injury (and, although less commonly, death) to the user behind the machine. In short, table saw kickback can be pretty terrifying.

How is Kickback Caused?

Table Saw Limitations:

The kickback phenomenon is the result of a variety of defects existing with or caused by the saw, the blade, the stock and, of course, by the operator. In fact, the majority of table saw kickback accidents are the result of operator error. To begin, however, with machinery limitations, kickback commonly occurs where lower power machines are asked to perform tasks that are too aggressive. When confronted with a catch, a bind or some other anomaly that slows the blade during a cut, where a more powerful saw can cut through the catch, a smaller saw can’t maintain momentum, its blade catches the workpiece and forces the stock to kickback at the operator. The actual girth of a machine also contributes to the momentum it is capable of producing; if a saw’s arbor and the motor’s rotor are heavy, this will usually generate enough force to push the blade through an abrupt obstruction. 

Improper Blade Use:

Like a machinery limitation, defects in a table saw’s blade are also notable agitators in the kickback movement. In certain circumstances, anything from a dull blade to a dirty blade can spit your workpiece back at you. In fact, dull, dirty, broken, bent or warped blades can cause kickback. Each of these cosmetic defects forces too much contact between wood and blade, generates too much friction heat, and grossly increases the chances that your blade will bite into your stock and fire back at you.

Using a blade that is not designed for the application being performed is another precursor to kickback. The most frequent errors in this camp involve operators using blades that are too fine or two small. Where a blade is too small (or doesn’t reach (on average) 1” to 1-1/2” above the stock being cut), the only downward pressure applied to the blade is manual and usually not sufficient. Eventually, the forward movement of the stock forces the piece upward with the forward edge of the blade; this, of course, will fling a workpiece in the direction the blade is spinning (which happens to be directly at the user). Additionally, where too-small blades are being used, more saw teeth are inside a workpiece at any given time and each saw tooth passes through a greater amount of material before exiting the stock. This generates excess heat, friction, and drag on the motor causing the motor to perform much closer to its stall level and encouraging a little (or a lot of) kickback.

Quite like a blade that is too small, a blade that is too fine does not provide enough downward force on a workpiece and similarly encourages lift-off. Accordingly, for your personal safety and for the integrity of your results, always use a saw blade that is designed for the task you’re performing. This will enhance the performance of your saw and the outcome of your work. You must also ensure your blades are clean, sharp, straight and intact; otherwise, you’ll end up with less-than-perfect results and possibly a piece of stock in your thigh.

Wood and Workpieces:

Kickback can also be caused by the wood or stock that’s being cut. In fact, under a few circumstances your workpiece itself might be the the biggest contributor to kickback. Stock with a twisting, knotted or locked grain, one with internal pressure, or wood that is wet or pitchy (sappy) will commonly result in kickback. These characteristics in a workpiece will introduce obstructions and obstacles between the blade and the stock and will produce too much friction during the cut. As aforementioned, this can forced the saw blade to bite and spit. Where pieces of sheet stock are thin, kickback can also occur if the stock is flexible enough to curl with the rotation of the blade (or if the sheet happens to be curled already). Accordingly, it is important to ensure your sheet stock is not allowed to lift off the saw table. Where sheet stock is wider than it is long, it is also crucial to ensure that that workpiece is not allowed to twist with the saw blade’s rotation (it is recommended that users employ a miter gauge to hold large pieces square). If lift or rotation occurs, a saw tooth (usually nearer the rear) will catch the piece and launch it forward; this causes the blade to dig rather than cut and produces, of course, kickback.

Operator Error:

To address those few human-error instances where kickback is, really, an eventuality – if your table saw’s fence is positioned with even the slightest skew towards the blade, you will experience kickback. If there is insufficient downward pressure on the workpiece as it is fed into the saw, you will experience kickback. If you force a workpiece too quickly into a machine, if you force a machine to perform a task it cannot perform, if you use blades that are not designed for the task being performed, if you release a workpiece before is has entirely passed through the blade, if you attempt to cut a workpiece freehand, if you tilt the blade so that traps a workpiece between itself and the fence as it is fed through the saw, or if a workpiece is allowed or forced to move upward or sideways during a cut, you will experience kickback. In short, there a quite a few things that can elicit a kickback reaction. The best prevention, then, is focus and thoughtfulness in the shop. Don’t lose sight of the present and remember that if a saw blade is not cutting stock, it’s forcing it backward.

To explain with a trifle more depth, though, and to begin with your fence – as stock is fed into a machine with the aforementioned imperfect setup (skewed towards the blade), it will become pinched between the blade and the fence. Quite like trying to force a large peg into a smaller hole, the stock will not continue to feed into an opening that is not at least as wide as itself. As the pinching pressure grows too great, the stock will be pushed (by the fence) into the back of the blade and forced back out of the machine towards the operator.

To ensure your fence is not the maniac behind a kickback attack, users must ensure that their table saw’s fence is either exactly parallel to the blade or, better yet, ever-so-slightly (perhaps the width of a piece of paper or card stock) skewed away from the blade. This ensures your stock has a clean, clear path through the blade and out the saw. Essentially, users must never allow the fence to be closer to the rear of the blade than the front.

As for keeping your grip, one should never let go of a workpiece in action. Despite staring horrified into the face of an impending kickback, do not let go of your stock. Your steadfastness might even prevent the kickback from occurring. Although there are certainly some circumstances that require an operator to abandon ship, for the most part, holding your ground is the safer alternative. Do not release a workpiece until it is past the blade and been removed from the saw.

In the event of imperfect initial stock placement (stock must be placed with the edge exactly butted against the fence) or a lack of downward pressure upon the workpiece as it’s fed, a “scewing” in the stock will occur that will trap a workpiece between the blade and the fence. Accordingly, one must always use the rip fence to guide stock while ripping and always keep downward pressure on the stock as it feeds. Additionally, not only does freehand cutting result in poor, crooked cuts, it can similarly trap stock and kick it back.

Riving Knives:

And finally, at the risk of now writing far too many words, kickback can also be caused by your riving knife. “What?!” You might exclaim, “my riving knife?!” And the answer will be “yes,” even your riving knife, that brilliant little device designed to prevent kickback from occurring can sometimes be the instrument behind it. Although having and properly using a riving knife will exponentially reduce the occurrence of table saw kickback, when used sloppily it can also throw a little wrench into your system. If your riving knife, who’s purpose is (in a very small nutshell) to keep a cut separated as a workpiece feeds through a table saw and to eliminate pressure on the blade from that workpiece as it feeds, is the same thickness as the kerf of your blade (the kerf being, simply, the width of the cut it produces or, of the cutting teeth themselves) it should be aligned with the blade. If the riving knife is thinner than the kerf of the blade, it should be aligned with the edge of the kerf that is closest to the fence. This should eliminate the riving knife from pinching or pushing and keep operators far more kickback free.

Conclusion:

So, in brief, use your saw and its corresponding accessories cautiously and correctly. Be conscious of the act you are performing, of the condition of your saw, and of the stock you are manipulating. This, although certainly a brain-full of information, should keep you running smooth and keep kickback at bay.