Just like virtually every other thing in life, your air tools require a certain degree of maintenance to perform at their peak, a little bit of premeditated tenderness to keep them operating smoothly. Fortunately, though, despite the overwhelming importance of oiling our pneumatic tools, the lubricating process is surprisingly simple.

Before I spill all the beans, though, let me say a few words about why properly oiling your air tools is so important. First, and as you know, pneumatic tools are built around a beautifully intricate system of gears, rotors, pistons, o-rings and so forth, that are designed to work together to convert compressed air into raw working energy. However, when you convert this air into that energy, condensation, or moisture, is produced within the tool which, in turn, mingles with the oil already existing within the tool. Together they become, essentially, a mess. The oil becomes gloopy and gummy causing more violent metal upon metal impacts inside the tool, this also generates more heat and invites the ever tragic reality slaps of premature wear and tear.

Ultimately, unless properly maintained, the action of doing exactly what it’s designed to do, attacks the overall performance and efficiency of our pneumatic tools. It’s a sad lot, but this wear and tear, or, really, component erosion, is easily and entirely preventable. Simply oil it, and your pneumatic tool will continue building, creating, finishing, and etc for all the live-long day.

To oil the thing, simply wipe-down the tool (it is always good practice to keep your tools clean) and, either before or after each use, plop in just a couple drops of air tool oil; keep in mind that sometimes even just one drop is perfectly enough to lube-up your tool. If you use the tool heavily, it is advised to oil it periodically throughout the work-day, or once every (approximately) 3,000 shots. Whether you oil-up your air tools before or after using them is entirely up to you – many crafters, however, prefer to oil at the end of a work-day as the extra oil will protect the tools interior metal components from any residual moisture produced during the day’s use.

While oiling, though, ensure the oil doesn’t get all over everything else, and if it does, make sure you clean up after yourself. While it is important for some components to be lubricated, it is equally important that some components stay dry.

It is also extremely important that you don’t over-oil your tools. Over-oiling can cause nearly as much damage as under-oiling rendering the tool’s innards sludgy and under-performing. So remember, despite the need to oil your air tools often (every day or with every use) they never require more than a few tiny drops to stay lubed.

With all that said, you now know how to properly oil your pneumatic tools. Yay!

For many crafters and tool users replacing worn or damaged power tool parts has become as familiar as driving a screw. For many of those same crafters, though, the thought of replacing the armature in a power drill is daunting if not altogether discouraging. Fortunately though, replacing the armature in a cordless Makita drill, one of the most popular drill types on the market today, is a far simpler process than you might have thought. In fact, with just a dash of courage and a handful of generally simple steps, you can remove and replace the armature in your Makita cordless drill like a true cordless-drill-armature-replacing fool.

First, as with any other cordless tool repair procedure, you must turn-off the drill and remove its battery. Next, you simply need to crack into the tool.

Lay the tool down on a sturdy flat surface and remove the drill’s end-cap (pictured below and to the right) and the top half of its clamshell or housing. The end-cap is the dome-shaped section of the housing directly opposite the chuck. Both the housing and end-cap will be held together with star-head screws, accordingly, you will require a star-head screw driver or drill bit to properly open the housing. Set the screws and the top half of the housing safely aside as you continue.

Now that all your power tool’s guts and glory are exposed, you will need to remove a few pieces before gaining full access to the armature. First, release the heat sink. This is an L-shaped piece of metal attached to the switch by a series of wires that latches-down over the armature and yoke. Simply pull and place it out of the way. Next, carefully remove the tool’s gear-box and brush-holder.

Take note of how these pieces are placed and positioned so that when reinstalling them, every component comes back together properly.

At this point, and because you’ve already got the tool cracked open, it is also a good idea to check the integrity of your brushes. These little suckers are certainly no strangers to wear and tear and it is never a bad idea to replace them where there are indications of damage. So, if your brushes look worn or crumbly, replace them before completing your repair.

Now that you have gained access to the armature, simply remove the armature and yoke, which at this point, will be connected and removed as one piece. The yoke is an open ended casing which fits over the fattest part of the armature’s body. Simply pull the two apart and insert the new armature into the yoke in the same fashion the damaged armature was removed.

Next, you will simply need to move backwards through procedure. This time, however, you get to combine a few steps. In fact, you will essentially insert all components thus far removed as one singular piece. In other words, insert the yoke and armature, the gear-box, and brush-holder simultaneously.

To do this, use the armature to push the brushes into the brush-holder. Ensuring the brushes can make complete contact with the armature, simply squeeze the two together and, holding that position, square the gear-box to the armature’s other side. Slide the components into the housing together ensuring they are positioned identically to their pre-removal stations. While inserting, you must also match the notch in the yoke to the plastic notch-catch that is molded into the drill housing. Matching and securing these points will ensure the armature (and surrounding components) remains in the right place inside your drill. NOTE: to match these points, the notch in the yoke will face directly away from you, or, what is now the very bottom of the drill.

Now that the armature and yoke, the gear-box and brush-holder are secured properly in place, replace the heat-sink. Next, replace the top-half of the drill housing and the end-cap. Here, be especially careful not to damage the threads of your star-head screws. This ensures that no matter how many times you need to break into your drill, those screws remain tight.

Lastly, to ensure everything has come back together properly, you simply need to test the drill. Attach the battery, engage the tool, and drill a few screws. If everything runs smoothly, then, congratulations, you have successfully replaced the armature in your Makita cordless drill. If everything doesn’t run smoothly, remove the housing once more and retrace your steps ensuring each component is properly communicating with its fellows. If you can find an error, for instance, if your brushes are not making complete contact, fix it. If you can not find an error or cannot otherwise convince the tool to perform properly, take the drill to an authorized Makita service center for professional inspection.

How to Maintain an Air Compressor

Having a good air compressor is a vital part of the woodworking and production industries. Accordingly, properly maintaining said air compressor is perhaps the most vital part of using and powering pneumatic equipment. Because your air compressor is the muscle behind your pneumatic tools, and behind your results as well, ensuring their performance from the ground up is just as important as your end results.

Read the Owner’s Manual –

The very first step to properly maintaining your air compressor (or any other piece of equipment for that matter) is becoming acquainted with the operating/owner’s manual. Although some crafters see their manuals as entirely inferior to their own massive knowledge, in reality, the manual contains a smorgasbord of truly valuable information that will help you ensure your compressor performs optimally for the longest possible amount of time. So, read and practice the guidelines in your operating manual, they will not lead you astray.

Storage –

Where you store your compressor is another important factor. Whether you use your compressor once per month or you use it everyday and store it only at night, you must store the thing in a cool, clean (dust-free) and dry environment. Where possible, you should also cover the machine ensuring it suffers from as few of the elements as possible. 

Compressor Types –

Additionally, there are two main types of air compressor – those that require regular oiling (designed for the heaviest industrial applications) and those that are oil-less and therefore require no oiling (designed for lighter-duty applications). Oil-less compressors require less regular upkeep but also wear more quickly and consequently require replacement more often. On the other hand, compressors that require oiling, despite demanding a bit more attention from their operators, enjoy a rejuvenating oil-bath and the required regular maintenance that ensures healthy components and a longer life-span. Because you have already read your owner’s manual, you know which type of compressor you have.

Certain aspects of your compressor’s maintenance require a little more frequency that others. Some procedures need to be performed everyday or with every use, while others require attention only on a monthly or six-month basis. The following describes the best practices and time intervals for properly maintaining your air compressor. 

Daily Maintenance –

On a daily basis or at least with every use, to prevent rust and water damage it is important to drain any moisture from the air compressor’s tanks. To do this you must first release the air pressure from the tanks, open the drain valves and allow all moisture to completely drain. If you work in a particularly dusty environment, it is also smart to blow or wipe any debris from the tool. This ensures your components remains clean and clear of clogging debris and perform optimally. 

Weekly Maintenance –

Once per week, remove any debris or other such obstructions from the air intake vents. Wipe them down well ensuring they are clean as a whistle and, if you use a compressor with a filter, get that filter whistling clean as well (you’d be surprised how dirty these things can get) and replace it as needed. If you use your compressor extremely rarely, is is probably not necessary to do this each week, but do do it after (about) every five uses. 

Monthly Maintenance –

Take a moment each month to give your compressor a good-old-fashioned check-up. Inspect its nooks and crannies paying special attention to moving parts, hoses and cords. Ensure the safety release valve opens properly, releases air pressure properly and closes properly without any air leakage. Similarly, ensure your hoses are leak free and in otherwise good condition, and that your cord doesn’t have any breaks, kinks, scrapes or cuts. Because the electrical hazard of using a damaged cord is so great, do not use your air compressor (or any other machine or appliance) with a damaged cord. 

Bi-Yearly Maintenance –

Take a little bit more time about twice each year (every six-months) to ensure your most critical working parts are working correctly. Check each of the compressor’s fittings for air-tightness ensuring there are no leaks and test that your gauges are displaying the correct readings. Replace parts and filers where necessary, and, should you run into more serious issues, quickly take your air compressor to an authorized service center for professional inspection.

And that’s just about the size of it. Remember to give a little time back to your air compressor and it will continue powering your tools and projects for years to come.

Dremel’s 8300-01 Cordless Multi-Max

The Dremel Multi-Max high-performance multi-tool has fast become one of the most popular multi-tools in the business, and, in fact, one of the most searched for power tools of any kind on the market today. The tool has been something of a phenomenon, and now, having released the 8300-01, a cordless version of their Multi-Max oscillating multi-tool, Dremel is cutting new ground and slugging the power tool and crafting industries with yet another multi-tool that doesn’t intend to share the spotlight.

Among many other things, the combination of affordability and high-performance in Dremel’s multi-tools makes them some of the most universally useful and accommodating power tools ever engineered. With the 8300-01, Dremel has seamlessly built that universality into a conveniently cordless design that, accordingly, renders the thing more portable, maneuverable and versatile than ever before. 

To get a little more technical, the 8300-01 oscillating multi-tool offers variable speeds (3,000 – 21,000 OPM) for a variety of working applications and the unparalleled versatility to confront any repair, remodeling, or restoration project one might possibly encounter. In fact, because the term multi-tool is never taken lightly in the production industries, and because Dremel is not a corner cutting manufacturer, the thing is designed to cut, grind, sand, scrape, remove grout, and everything in between.

Because the tool is also designed ergonomically for operator comfort and optimal controllability, the tool is simple for any user to operate and yields always amazing results. Additionally, with superior precision and clean performance, the tool is ideal for anyone from professional crafters and handymen to home-owners, hobbyists and do-it-yourself-ers. It’s a truly universal power tool that allows professionals to use high-performance equipment at an affordable price, and allows the average homeowner to work with professional, high-end power tools.

With the ability to rough-up your rough projects and perform gently during more delicate applications, the tool is safe for all types of project and appropriate for all types of user. Because this Multi-Max also features a soft start mechanism and an electronic brake, you can trust its smooth movements and safe, smooth stops. The tool additionally offers a variable oscillating angle allowing the tool’s head to pivot up to three degrees to the left or right. This variable angle allows you to get the tool into harder to reach or awkward areas with surprising ease, so, whether your slicing through a maze of metal piping, or delicately finishing a restoration project, the cordless Multi-Max can get just about anywhere you need it to go.

The Dremel 8300-01 multi-tool kit additionally includes two 12v Max lithium-ion batteries (which boast a comparatively impressive run-time), a one-hour charger, a 3/4” wood flush-cut blade, 3” wood and drywall saw blade, a hook and loop pad, sandpaper in a variety of grits, and the always convenient storage case. Imagine what you could repair, remodel, and restore with a multi-tool.

For Straighter Edges, Use a Sanding Block 

Unless you are trying to achieve an overtly or subtly rounded edge while sanding a board, don’t use a power sander. Instead use a sanding block; this will ensure your sanded edges remain crisp, clean, flat and angular.